Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Go time.


After breakfast this morning we spent some time on "snow craft." While this description might conjure images of a summer camp activity, it in fact involves some pretty essential mountaineering skills. We found a nearby hill with ample incline. Then we practiced traversing techniques, ice ax placement, and self arrest. It was fun. So much so that I completely forgot about the stiff back I woke with. Now we are killing time until lunch. Some of us are reading. Some of us are blogging. It is quiet in our hut. The climb to 15,000 yesterday took a pretty good bite out of us, so the rest today is welcome. But the unspoken concern on most of our minds is the fact our summit attempt will be even bigger and with thinner air. Mike told the Team that climbers pretty typically hit a wall in the saddle, from there it will be about each individuals determination. I remember a similar point on the Denali climb. We were still 1,000 feet below the summit. I was breathing three times for every two steps. I called ahead to Ty at the lead of our rope. "Sam needs a rest." Then I turned back to Sam at the rope anchor. "Ty needs a rest," I said. They were both delighted to have broken the other man. I was delighted to gather myself up. I reached inside my parka for a Gu, a sort of liquid energy gel. What I pulled out was a collection of laminated photos I had placed there a few days before. My Brother, my Sons, my Best Friend, and several other loved ones each spoke to me. From that moment until I reached the summit I imagined one or the other of them walking next to me. I will be carrying a similar collection of photos tomorrow for when I hit "the wall." I will also be carrying a small quantity of my Brother's ashes, which I will leave at the summit, should I succeed in getting there. Now it is evening. Mike just finished his talk on Hypothermia and Frost Bite. Richard and I are burning nervous energy by examining each piece of gear and packing them for the likely order they will be needed. Ankita and Paul are laughing about something in the bunk above me. We will eat dinner at seven, gather what sleep we can after that, then leave for the summit at 2:00 A.M. The snow cat will take us up to the Pashtukhova rocks, picking up where we left off yesterday. The weather forecast calls for clouds and sun. Most importantly, the wind should be a harmless 3 - 5 mph. It will take the Team seven to nine hours to reach the summit, depending how our members hold up. Then it's several hours back down. It will be a very long day, but hopefully a very gratifying one as well. So this will be my final entry until we return. Many thanks to my Family, Friends, Colleagues, and Clients who have given me so much encouragement and positive energy over the months leading up to this. At some point, I suspect, each of you will walk beside me. -Dave

4 comments:

  1. As I am reading this, you and your team are climbing to the summit! Our best wishes for your success and safety are raised up! Can hardly wait to get up tomorrow morning to check this blog!!

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  2. Thanks, Greg and Linda. It has been really nice having you along for the ride with your words of encouragement. -Dave

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  3. Dave, You are a stud and I so much admire your drive and ambition to follow your dreams!As I have told you before you inspire me! I miss you!Tell all awesome job!

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  4. Bravo to you and the team. You guys had eagles in the eyes. Good Job! Love Mama and Papa Bear

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